Archiwa kategorii: Subcultures

Sneakers that changed the game: Part II

Adidas Superstar

adidas-superstar-promodel_1970

A classic from Adidas that came out in the seventies. A distinctive feature of the model was the „shell” on the toe, protecting the toes. Karim Abdul-Jabbar, a basketball player who wore them at the height of his career in 1970-71, played a big role in their popularity.

B-boys and skateboarders were inspired by the athletes’ outward attributes. The Superstar was considered a prestigious sneakers in the U.S. because it was chosen by local Bronx trendsetters and innovators, earning street cred. All of this combined to make the silhouette the most sought after in the eighties. To cope with the huge demand, Adidias expanded production of the lineup to socialist Hungary and Czechoslovakia.

Nike Huarache

unnamed

The idea for the Huarache sneakers came from water-skiing: designer Tinker Hatfield noticed that neoprene socks fitted snugly around the foot. It dawned on Hatfield that this synthetic material insert in these sneakers would help adapt them better to the individual foot, making them more comfortable and practical.

While working on the sketch, another idea occurred to the designer – how to fix the neoprene sock. Tinker came up with a special support system for the foot, reminiscent of the straps of sandals, the so-called „exoskeleton” on the outside of the sneaker. Thanks to this element the model was called „Huarache,” which is the word the Mexicans call sandals.

In 1991, the sneakers project was turned into a final sample, but it suffered a complete commercial fiasco. Only one wholesaler was interested in it, and he ordered only 50 pairs. This meant that this innovative model was not going to see the light of day.

Tom Archie, who was responsible for the technical part of the project, intervened in the situation. He believed in the success of Huarache and bypassed the management to place an order with the factory for 5000 pairs, which had to be distributed clandestinely at the Nike stand at the New York City Marathon. Unlike sporting goods retailers, running enthusiasts immediately appreciated the novelty’s unusual design and comfort. This opened up the Huarache sneakers to the general public – already by the end of the first year of sales Nike had managed to sell more than 250,000 pairs.

Adidas Forum

s-l1600

Their story began in 1983 in France. The designer Jacques Chassaing would be an essential player in both the outsider team of the 80s and the current one.

The ideologist thought of creating a basketball sport that would favor the whole team, keeping in mind the diversity of athletes, their different roles, and physical characteristics. Through conversations with coaches and players, he located the weak point in the ankle. He visualized the bands used by the psychotherapists to stabilize it and decided to integrate a stabilizing element into the shoe: the ‘criss-cross ankle system’, which embraces and protects the whole area.

After a process of material exploration and inclusion of elements such as a special shock-absorbing sole, the sneakers made its debut in 1984. That same year, Jordan would wear them during the Olympic basketball trials in the USA.

Nike Dunk

NIKE-DUNK-BE-TRUE-2-v2

The sneakers has made a transition from the B-ball space to skate culture – making the history of the Nike Dunk incredibly rich.

The Nike Dunk is by far one of the Swoosh’s most recognizable sneakers. The silhouette was first introduced in 1985 alongside the Air Jordan 1. Since then, it has shifted from college basketball to skate culture and now solidified itself as a streetwear staple. Over 30 years on, a younger generation has arrived to embrace history.

The history of the Nike Dunk began on college basketball courts.  To take on the new market, Nike released the Nike Dunk – a sneakers specifically meant for college teams that were under Nike. This saw the release of the “Be True To Your School” colors. Each team would receive Dunks in their team colors.

Eventually, the sneakers received a mid-life update and received a nylon tongue. This made the sneaker way more comfortable and was soon adopted by skaters and sneakerheads who just loved the silhouette.

Fashion in the 1960’s: the rise and fall of the Hippie subculture

Sex, drugs and second hand

One of the most influence subcultures – Hippie or the flower children. Their movement swept the planet in the 1960’s by challenging the traditional values that had been passed down, the Hippies changed culture.

How did the world peace movement come about?

  • Young people in the late 1950’s and 1960’s protested against the conservatism and puritanism that characterized both British and American society.
  • The full-scale US intervention in the Vietnam War in 1965 and the unwillingness of young people to die in the overseas jungle for values they did not share.
  • The Hippie subculture was the answer to the ultimate American dream: a good job, your own house, a couple of cars, a couple of kids and going to church on Sundays.

The fashion and culture of the first half of the decade was little different from that of the 1950’s:  women still wore laconic fitted dresses and men wore suits with a classic cut. Everything changed in 1967 when fringe movements came out of the underground and literally took over the world.

Beginning in the mid-1960’s, members of America’s creative elite began to gather in informal communes where they experimented with psychotropic substances, listened to progressive music and discussed esoteric and philosophical texts.

Merry Pranksters

One of the first and most famous communes of this time was the Merry Pranksters, founded by journalist and author Ken Kesey.

The Pranksters became a link between generations, trendsetters of a bright new fashion and, at the same time, the main popularizers of LSD in America. The thing is that at the time when Ken Kesey was studying at the university, the CIA was conducting tests of the then little-known psychotropic substance, which had never before gone beyond a narrow circle of scientists. The future writer volunteered, and later introduced other „pranksters” to the psychedelic, who shared their impressions with friends and thus increased the demand for the substance.

Among other things, they were the first to paint their buses and outfits massively in rainbow colors, which would not go out of fashion until the end of the 1970’s. The commune members were also into ethnic drawings of Native Americans, Oriental philosophy and preaching world peace – an ideology that was visually reflected in the clothes of Hippies.

Two members of the commune opened the first boutique in the States, which sold exclusively „progressive” outfits in „folk” style, jewellery with pacifist slogans and accessories stylised as exotic.

Hippie&Music

The Hippie subculture could not help but influence fashion, as the most popular musicians of the 1960s were close to it: John Lennon, The Beatles, Jimmy Hendrix and others.

Members of the subculture more often wore deliberately androgynous clothing, claiming gender was an idea imposed by modern society. Both men and women wore loose-fitting jeans and shirts made from the simplest possible fabric. Unlike their mothers and older sisters who emphasised femininity with flamboyant make-up, hippie girls often wore no make-up at all, trying to be as natural as possible. Both men and women grew their hair long and their hairstyles were uncomplicated, with popular styles including braids and straight hair. Another important step in the fight against the contrived rules of ‚civilised’ society was the rejection of bras – many girls thus defended the right not to alter their figure depending on fickle ideals of beauty.

Hippie&Feminism

Naturally, the drive to assert women’s rights was also influenced by the second wave of feminism and the sexual revolution, which was in full swing in the late 1960’s. The year 1966 saw the publication of the famous scientific work of the researchers Masters and Johnson, which, for the first time, seriously examined the individual physiological responses to sexual arousal and refuted the myth of the allegedly innate asexuality of women. European film stars like Brigitte Bardot, who were not afraid to be overly revealing and who were nothing like the role models of the dainty Jackie Kennedy or the elegant Audrey Hepburn, also contributed to this.

WOODSTOCK – 1969

Four days America will never forget.

A record 500,000 people attended. The four days at Max Yasgur’s Dairy Farm were a feast of peace, love and music, briefly turning everyone into one big family. nothing could ruin the fantastic atmosphere of the festival: people were willing to stand in kilometre-long traffic jams to get to the farm, knocking down fences to allow free passage and sharing food with each other by setting up field kitchens. „Woodstock was a real sensation at the time. Within nine months of its conclusion about 200 000 children born out of wedlock were born. It was the beginning of the sexual revolution and the end of the „hippie era”.

The grey crowd turned into a colorful crowd

The main driver of style was the desire to distinguish themselves from the crowd in mass-produced clothes of similar styles. Instead of helping big corporations, hippies bought clothes in second hand shops or tried to produce them themselves. Unfortunately, in the early 1970’s, the Hippies’ worst nightmare came true: clothes adorned with ethnic prints and psychedelic designs became part of mass culture. They began to be made by the very big companies against which the protest was directed.

The influence of the subculture today

Hippies are forever in history with their music, philosophy, mood and style. In one way or another they are firmly rooted in the history of fashion and in one way or another there will always be some element of the Hippie style with us, no matter if it’s a bandana, a bracelet, a tie-dye, or psychedelic prints. There will always be something we can borrow from the hippie style and incorporate it into our everyday look. Hippies are a vivid mark on the history of fashion, and we all know that fashion is cyclical.