Miesięczne archiwum: Czerwiec 2021

Sneakers that changed the game: Part II

Adidas Superstar

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A classic from Adidas that came out in the seventies. A distinctive feature of the model was the „shell” on the toe, protecting the toes. Karim Abdul-Jabbar, a basketball player who wore them at the height of his career in 1970-71, played a big role in their popularity.

B-boys and skateboarders were inspired by the athletes’ outward attributes. The Superstar was considered a prestigious sneakers in the U.S. because it was chosen by local Bronx trendsetters and innovators, earning street cred. All of this combined to make the silhouette the most sought after in the eighties. To cope with the huge demand, Adidias expanded production of the lineup to socialist Hungary and Czechoslovakia.

Nike Huarache

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The idea for the Huarache sneakers came from water-skiing: designer Tinker Hatfield noticed that neoprene socks fitted snugly around the foot. It dawned on Hatfield that this synthetic material insert in these sneakers would help adapt them better to the individual foot, making them more comfortable and practical.

While working on the sketch, another idea occurred to the designer – how to fix the neoprene sock. Tinker came up with a special support system for the foot, reminiscent of the straps of sandals, the so-called „exoskeleton” on the outside of the sneaker. Thanks to this element the model was called „Huarache,” which is the word the Mexicans call sandals.

In 1991, the sneakers project was turned into a final sample, but it suffered a complete commercial fiasco. Only one wholesaler was interested in it, and he ordered only 50 pairs. This meant that this innovative model was not going to see the light of day.

Tom Archie, who was responsible for the technical part of the project, intervened in the situation. He believed in the success of Huarache and bypassed the management to place an order with the factory for 5000 pairs, which had to be distributed clandestinely at the Nike stand at the New York City Marathon. Unlike sporting goods retailers, running enthusiasts immediately appreciated the novelty’s unusual design and comfort. This opened up the Huarache sneakers to the general public – already by the end of the first year of sales Nike had managed to sell more than 250,000 pairs.

Adidas Forum

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Their story began in 1983 in France. The designer Jacques Chassaing would be an essential player in both the outsider team of the 80s and the current one.

The ideologist thought of creating a basketball sport that would favor the whole team, keeping in mind the diversity of athletes, their different roles, and physical characteristics. Through conversations with coaches and players, he located the weak point in the ankle. He visualized the bands used by the psychotherapists to stabilize it and decided to integrate a stabilizing element into the shoe: the ‘criss-cross ankle system’, which embraces and protects the whole area.

After a process of material exploration and inclusion of elements such as a special shock-absorbing sole, the sneakers made its debut in 1984. That same year, Jordan would wear them during the Olympic basketball trials in the USA.

Nike Dunk

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The sneakers has made a transition from the B-ball space to skate culture – making the history of the Nike Dunk incredibly rich.

The Nike Dunk is by far one of the Swoosh’s most recognizable sneakers. The silhouette was first introduced in 1985 alongside the Air Jordan 1. Since then, it has shifted from college basketball to skate culture and now solidified itself as a streetwear staple. Over 30 years on, a younger generation has arrived to embrace history.

The history of the Nike Dunk began on college basketball courts.  To take on the new market, Nike released the Nike Dunk – a sneakers specifically meant for college teams that were under Nike. This saw the release of the “Be True To Your School” colors. Each team would receive Dunks in their team colors.

Eventually, the sneakers received a mid-life update and received a nylon tongue. This made the sneaker way more comfortable and was soon adopted by skaters and sneakerheads who just loved the silhouette.

Sneakers that changed the game: Part I

THE ADIDAS STAN SMITH

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoGD6CfPPgM&ab_channel=VISIMAGAZINEVISIMAGAZINE

In 1978, adidas released its Stan Smith trainer. Originally an endorsement deal with tennis star Stan Smith, it was the first leather, not canvas, sports shoe.

To understand the origins of the Stan Smith, you have to go back to the shoe’s original name: the adidas Robert Haillet.

The Three Stripes tapped Robert Haillet, one of just two French tennis professionals at the time, to be the sneakers namesake in 1965. According to the book Sneaker Wars¸ when the sneaker was introduced in 1965, “the small cast of emerging tennis professionals widely agreed that it was by far the best tennis shoe on the market.” Much like the adidas Superstar, that was beginning to make some noise on the basketball court—the shoe’s leather provided more support, preventing twisted ankles and other injuries.

The debut of the Robert Haillet coincided with a surge in tennis popularity.

In 1971, Haillet had retired from tennis and Horst Dassler needed to find an active player to endorse an updated version of the shoe in his place. Donald Dell, arguably the most influential tennis agent in the business at the time, suggested his client Stan Smith.

While Smith came to adidas in 1971, the shoe was not officially changed to the adidas Stan Smith until 1978.  So, for most of the ’70s, the model was still named the Robert Haillet, before changing the name and adding Smith’s picture.

Sales for the shoe reached new heights once the name was changed and Smith took over. Everyone began to wear Stan Smiths

But as technical sportswear gained momentum in the 80s, Stan Smiths began to lose their popularity as performance shoes. Instead, they became a style staple off court. The universality of the model is owed, at least in part, to its minimal design – an all white pump with just a Most models and versions are in fact made with real leather. Functionally, there isn’t much to the adidas Stan Smith.

THE NIKE AIR JORDAN 1

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEmAgKYV1uo&ab_channel=KicksOnFirecom

On October 15, Nike created a revolutionary new basketball shoe.

In 1984, Nike embarked on the most important sports endorsement deal of all time, teaming up with NBA player Michael Jordan on Nike’s basketball extension brand, named after the basketballer.  Even though Jordan was originally vying for an adidas sponsorship, within the first month of the shoe’s release, Nike raked in $70 million. Then, throughout the 80s and 90s, Nike would drop a new Jordan sneaker for every season the basketballer played.

That’s all anybody needed. Sneakears dropped and sold out immediately. Nike set retail at $65 a piece, expensive for their time, and they sold out as quickly as they do today.

During that first season, and that first go around with the sneakers, Nike released 13 colorways of the shoe. The famous “Banned,” “Chicago,” “Royal,” “Black Toe,” “Shadow,” and “Carolina Blue” colorways, as well as Black & White, Blue & White, Metallic Red, Metallic Purple, Metallic Blue, Metallic Green, and Natural Grey.

“This sneakers is credited with being the catalyst for collecting and reselling,” now is the style. The Jordan 1 is the most popular sneaker on StockX. Notably, last year’s release of the AJ1 Dior blurred the lines between streetwear and high fashion with its luxurious resale value averaging around $10K.

THE NIKE AIR MAX 1

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frO0UaKdJnY&ab_channel=DeFYNewYorkYouTubeChannelDeFYNewYorkYouTubeChannel

In 1987 Nike released the inaugural Air Max sneaker, the Air Max 1.

For Nike, the Air Max 1 sneakers went down in history as a pivotal and innovative design that elevated the brand when they needed it most.

Nike’s Air technology wasn’t new it was developed by former NASA engineer Frank Rudy and introduced in the Air Tailwind in 1978. Air replaced traditional molded EVA soles with gas filled urethane pouches. However, it was the consensus that as performance technology the pouches ought to be felt and not seen. That was until Tinker Hatfield came along.

It wasn’t another sneakers or even a fashion concept that planted the idea to expose the Air-cushioned sole in Hatfield’s mind, it was a controversial building in Paris that many considered an eyesore. Centre Georges Pompidou, a building design that took all its functional and structural elements and placed them on the outside for all to see.

Nike’s first sneakers to reveal the Air-cushioned sole, the Air Max 1, finally released March 26, 1987 and featured in Nike’s first television ad the same year. It was part of the Air Pack which also featured the Air Trainer 1, Air Sock, Air Revolution and Air Safari.

From then onward, Air Max led to a sneakers series that’s still going strong thirty years later.

NIKE AIR FORCE 1

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKAXDs7GhhU&ab_channel=jemetonicPRODUKSHUNZ

The Nike Air Force 1s are not only an inner-city staple, but may well be the most iconic sneakers of all time. Designed by Bruce Kilgore in 1982.  The Air Force 1 is Nike’s all-time best-selling model. Over 1,700 colourways have been released, bringing in an estimated $800 million per year in revenue. Whether in low top, mid, or high, “the Nike Air Force 1 is, simply put, a classic.” To date, the AF1 Low White 07 is one of the highest traded shoes on StockX with nearly 50,000 trades.

In the world of sneakers, few styles last. The ones that do are the true classics—the trends that graduate to staples. They’re consistently worn by both footwear enthusiasts and the general public. The Nike Air Force 1 in its most popular, iconic style: low-cut, in all-white.

Jay Z was one of the first to specifically shout out white Air Forces Ones sneakers, helping cement them as an East Coast hood classic. On the song “Can I Live II”,  a young Jay rapped, “For all my niggas with the all-white Air Force Ones and black guns.”

The sneakers silhouette that entered street culture as an attention-grabbing anomaly had become a mandatory street staple, paired with a white tee and big jeans for a uniform of dope boy anonymity. With more availability  and a lower price point than it had over two decades prior, the Air Force 1 was a phenomenon.

The hyped-up collaborations and limited-run collectibles have given the AF1 a covetable level of prestige and helped spread its gospel to new generations.

 

Art by Annie Leibovitz: Life through a Сamera

Why should we know Annie Leibovitz?

Annie Leibovitz is considered one of the most sought-after and talented female photographers of our time, her work has been exhibited in galleries around the world and has graced the covers of Vogue and Vanity Fair.

Leibovitz started her career as a freelance photographer for Rolling Stone Magazine and soon became a photographer of worldwide fame, portraying actor Arnold Schwarzenegger, Queen Elizabeth II, ballet dancer Mikhail Baryshnikov, musician Michael Jackson, former US President Barack Obama and others.

As Leibovitz admitted she was in love with each character of her works, tried to notice the slightest changes in their mood and make the images in her photos as authentic as possible.

In 1970 a friend persuaded Annie to take her photos to Rolling Stone magazine. She came with a suitcase of photos: protests, rallies against the war in San Francisco and Berkeley, Israel, where she shot for a while. The young Rolling Stone staff liked Annie and hired her. She quickly became a star of the magazine and worked there for 13 years.

I want to introduce you to some of Annie’s work, although each deserves special attention.

John Lennon and Yoko Ono, 1980

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Annie photographed John Lennon twice for Rolling Stone. The first time was in 1970. It was this shoot that started her work with the world’s biggest stars.
She was very young at the time, it was her first major assignment from the magazine. John and Yoko were very surprised that it was Annie who was sent by the editors to be interviewed, but they still treated her like a professional.
In 1980, Annie took a picture of a naked John hugging his wife. A few hours after the photo was taken, the musician was killed. The cover with this picture was recognized as the best one in several decades.
Annie said later that she had not planned to realize this idea beforehand – the characters of the photo had not rehearsed before shooting, and Lennon’s pose was spontaneous and „very strong”.

Meryl Streep, 1981

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Meryl Streep, who was to grace the cover of Rolling Stone magazine in 1981, did not like the idea of a portrait session by Leibovitz, and the photographer had a wonderful idea – to put on the actress’ face with a thick white paint, which mimes usually use. The result was that the makeup photo was sold at Christie’s for $15,000.

Whoopi Goldberg, 1984

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In the early 1980s Annie Leibovitz decided to expand into commercial and fashion photography and began taking pictures for Vanity Fair. The new place of work significantly influenced the photographer’s style: Leibovitz paid special attention to the angle and style of her photographs, carefully considering the images of her characters. For example, actress and comedienne Whoopi Goldberg’s photo shoot from Annie took her to the peak of fame. „Friday night I was walking down the street quietly, and Saturday on the same street people were shouting my name,” Goldberg later recalled.

That’s because Leibovitz had an interesting idea – to shoot a dark-skinned actress in a tub of milk. The contrast did the trick: A photograph of Whoopi Goldberg throwing up her legs and arms in the milk bath later sold at auction at Christie’s for $9560.

Leonardo DiCaprio, 1997

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The photo shoot with Leonardo DiCaprio took place when the young actor was still little known to the general public. Annie decided to look at the image of a young rebel differently than it was represented in the media: a gentle and at the same time serious nature of young DiCaprio successfully combined with the image of a swan.

 „Harry Potter” cast, 2001

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Annie Leibovitz was given the opportunity to be one of the first to do a photo shoot of young actors right on the set. The professionalism of the photographer impressed the creators of the picture, and after the release of new parts of the saga in the world, Leibovitz took up filming the entire cast again.

Cate Blanchett, 2004

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The childishly naive and cute picture of a smiling girl on a bicycle quickly caught the attention of the audience, despite the fact that no huge budgets were spent on its creation.

Annie Leibovitz Ig: https://www.instagram.com/annieleibovitz/?hl=ru

Anime in The fashion World: How and Why?

“If manga weren’t there, fashion would have had to invent it.”

Japanese manga and anime has been all the rage in recent years, even on major runways.

The manga storytelling style, which is defined by lush visuals and text, is derived from age-old works of Japanese art, illustrated scrolls dating as far back as the 12th century; it reached critical mass through serialization in newspapers and magazines in the 1920s. A century later manga is a billion-dollar industry that encompasses fine art, games, and, most notably, anime, its moving image counterpart.

The genre and its video counterpart, anime, has grown to establish a lucrative industry and an international imprint. Well-liked series such as Sailor Moon and Doraemon, in addition to the kawaii character Hello Kitty, have been born out of an explosion of interest in manga all over the world.

Sailor Moon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5txHGxJRwtQ

“I am the Pretty Guardian who fights for love and justice!” So cries Sailor Moon, the eponymous character of the hit manga and anime series Sailor Moon, to the forces of evil who plague her universe. Shortly thereafter, she proceeds to enter battle with her loyal crew of Sailor Guardians  – all while looking astonishingly stylish. 

Nearly 30 years on from when Sailor Moon first leaped off the pages of manga and onto television screens around the world, Naoko Takeuchi’s iconic characters have been endless wells of inspiration for fans of the show. But, now it’s their fashion that’s taking centre-stage. New-generation ‘Moonies’ are taking closer note of the outfits the Guardians wear in between battling monsters.

It’s easy to see why. From the onset, Sailor Moon was always a fashion-forward programme. Unlike other animated shows of the time, the main cast possessed an ever-rotating roster of outfit pieces they would call on each episode: from sweetheart dresses, cardigans, crop tops, and A-line skirts to blouses, turtlenecks, blazers, and button-up shirts.

Overall, “Sailor Moon is full of the best 90s trends and fashion inspirations, I think what resonates with people to this day about their fashion is how real it feels.” – Lisa Fevral, who creates videos that break down each Sailor Guardian’s personal style choices.

“There is no direct limit to who can wear what in Sailor Moon’s world, as long as you know how to wear it”

The styling of the main cast is crafted in a way that doesn’t box the characters in,” and that lends itself well to the superfluous nature of street style.

Guardians Makoto and Rei were often seen mixing masculine apparel such as hip hop-inspired sportswear with feminine colour blocking palettes, as well as the later queer guardians Sailor Neptune and Sailor Uranus – the latter of whom exclusively wore masculine clothing while in civilian mode.

Haruka traditionally donned classic brown suits, and took on the masculine feats of shibuya classic style with her classic white oversized shirt and red band tied around the arm, an iconic outfit and one of the overall fan favourite looks. “Gender doesn’t make a difference,” Haruka says at one point to the other Guardians after they mistake her for male in civilian-mode. “If you think that, you can’t protect the ones you love.”

TikTok and Instagram is the platform to see Sailor Moon arrive as a street style trend. With most of the Guardians’ looks now archived by the Instagram account @sailor_fashionistas, creator Ella Cheng.

When she first started creating content, many of her followers asked for recreations of anime fashion. Sailor Moon style is so appealing in today’s world because of its diversity of choice. “Most of their clothing choices have their own colour palette and unique ways to style it that reflects their personalities,” Cheng explains.

With more young content creators popping up every day recreating and archiving the fashion of Sailor Moon, it only reaffirms what Moonies everywhere already knew: timeless, dynamic, and sometimes queer – Sailor Moon will never go out of style.

Anime influence

Anime’s influence on fashion goes beyond the runway shows of the past few years. In the early 2000s, animes like Nana inspired a generation of teens with its mixture of goth and 90s riot grrrl style. Today, however, characters are placed directly onto designer items.

Indeed, anime not only serves to inspire the way today’s youth culture looks, but is now poised as the subject itself. Evidencing luxury fashion’s infatuation with anime aesthetics was Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 16 ready-to-wear show, which featured visuals inspired by Neon Genesis Evangelion, Ghost in the Shell and Sailor Moon. Streetwear, on the other hand — has collectively expressed its affinity for Japanese animation via numerous collaborations with the creators of pioneering anime like Akira and Dragon Ball Z.

Recently, Gucci released a Doraemon X Gucci capsule collection for Chinese New Year, placing the manga cat-robot on bags, tees, and more.

Anime styles and allusions are especially prevalent in streetwear. Accessible brands like Uniqlo and Adidas have put out highly successful collaborations with Manga series, high-end brands, closely linked to hype beast culture, like Supreme and Bape have also engaged in similar collaborations.

Merchandise with popular characters and themed home goods are just a few things that have precipitated out the collective adoration of the various shows and series. However, the manga obsession does not stop there.  Louis Vuitton, Moschino, and Prada have all embraced manga on the runway with statement pieces inspired by the signature comic style and direct allusions to viral characters.

Top Anime Collaborations:

  • Bait x Diadora x Astro Boy

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  • The Hundreds x HOOK-UPS

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  • MSGM X Attacker You!

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  • BAPE x One Piece ∣ Dragon Ball ∣ Pokemon

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  • Uniqlo X Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon ∣ Shonen Jump

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  • Air Jordan x Slam Dunk

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  • AKIRA x Supreme

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  • Adidas x Dragon Ball

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