Archiwa kategorii: Fashion History

Art by Annie Leibovitz: Life through a Сamera

Why should we know Annie Leibovitz?

Annie Leibovitz is considered one of the most sought-after and talented female photographers of our time, her work has been exhibited in galleries around the world and has graced the covers of Vogue and Vanity Fair.

Leibovitz started her career as a freelance photographer for Rolling Stone Magazine and soon became a photographer of worldwide fame, portraying actor Arnold Schwarzenegger, Queen Elizabeth II, ballet dancer Mikhail Baryshnikov, musician Michael Jackson, former US President Barack Obama and others.

As Leibovitz admitted she was in love with each character of her works, tried to notice the slightest changes in their mood and make the images in her photos as authentic as possible.

In 1970 a friend persuaded Annie to take her photos to Rolling Stone magazine. She came with a suitcase of photos: protests, rallies against the war in San Francisco and Berkeley, Israel, where she shot for a while. The young Rolling Stone staff liked Annie and hired her. She quickly became a star of the magazine and worked there for 13 years.

I want to introduce you to some of Annie’s work, although each deserves special attention.

John Lennon and Yoko Ono, 1980

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Annie photographed John Lennon twice for Rolling Stone. The first time was in 1970. It was this shoot that started her work with the world’s biggest stars.
She was very young at the time, it was her first major assignment from the magazine. John and Yoko were very surprised that it was Annie who was sent by the editors to be interviewed, but they still treated her like a professional.
In 1980, Annie took a picture of a naked John hugging his wife. A few hours after the photo was taken, the musician was killed. The cover with this picture was recognized as the best one in several decades.
Annie said later that she had not planned to realize this idea beforehand – the characters of the photo had not rehearsed before shooting, and Lennon’s pose was spontaneous and „very strong”.

Meryl Streep, 1981

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Meryl Streep, who was to grace the cover of Rolling Stone magazine in 1981, did not like the idea of a portrait session by Leibovitz, and the photographer had a wonderful idea – to put on the actress’ face with a thick white paint, which mimes usually use. The result was that the makeup photo was sold at Christie’s for $15,000.

Whoopi Goldberg, 1984

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In the early 1980s Annie Leibovitz decided to expand into commercial and fashion photography and began taking pictures for Vanity Fair. The new place of work significantly influenced the photographer’s style: Leibovitz paid special attention to the angle and style of her photographs, carefully considering the images of her characters. For example, actress and comedienne Whoopi Goldberg’s photo shoot from Annie took her to the peak of fame. „Friday night I was walking down the street quietly, and Saturday on the same street people were shouting my name,” Goldberg later recalled.

That’s because Leibovitz had an interesting idea – to shoot a dark-skinned actress in a tub of milk. The contrast did the trick: A photograph of Whoopi Goldberg throwing up her legs and arms in the milk bath later sold at auction at Christie’s for $9560.

Leonardo DiCaprio, 1997

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The photo shoot with Leonardo DiCaprio took place when the young actor was still little known to the general public. Annie decided to look at the image of a young rebel differently than it was represented in the media: a gentle and at the same time serious nature of young DiCaprio successfully combined with the image of a swan.

 „Harry Potter” cast, 2001

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Annie Leibovitz was given the opportunity to be one of the first to do a photo shoot of young actors right on the set. The professionalism of the photographer impressed the creators of the picture, and after the release of new parts of the saga in the world, Leibovitz took up filming the entire cast again.

Cate Blanchett, 2004

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The childishly naive and cute picture of a smiling girl on a bicycle quickly caught the attention of the audience, despite the fact that no huge budgets were spent on its creation.

Annie Leibovitz Ig: https://www.instagram.com/annieleibovitz/?hl=ru

History of Marc Jacobs’ S/S93 grunge collection

Collection that Kurt Cobain set on fire and the fashion industry condemned

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-U6TpMx_tY

In 1992, Marc Jacobs presented his Spring/Summer 1993 for Perry Ellis with a clear aesthetic: grunge. Turning the established identity of the house and the fashion industry on its head, the show entered to the fashion history and was a prime example of a designer doing exactly he wanted.

At the time, Jacobs was the head of Perry Ellis, a traditionally chic and bourgeois label which mixed the classic and sexy styles that monopolized the 1980s fashion industry. Jacobs decided for his Spring/Summer 1993 show that the fashion industry had become too homogenized, taking it upon himself to break with the Perry Ellis’ chic aesthetic and present a collection that was shockingly dressed-down.

“Grunge is anathema to fashion,” wrote Cathy Horyn in her 1992 show report of Marc Jacobs’ Perry Ellis collection. „Rarely has slovenliness looked so self-conscious, or commanded so high a price.” Hers was one amidst many condemnations that rained down from journalists, editors and buyers alike. Just weeks after, Jacobs was summarily fired from the brand and the line itself was shut down. The pieces never went into production – on paper, it should have signaled the end of his career.

Instead, S/S93 at Perry Ellis was the start of something, marking Jacobs as a pioneer of youth culture and a renegade when it came to inspirations.

The Show

Models wore floating chiffons teamed with Doc Martens, cashmere thermals with oversized plaid shirts tied around their waists and baggy nightdresses. Hair was stringy and matted, cheeks were flushed as they marched down the runway to the sounds of Sonic Youth (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIIEbrMXs20), Nirvana and L-7. It was an explicit homage to the trends that been propelled into general consciousness by the success of bands like Nirvana and ended up in Hollywood through Cameron Crowe’s 1992 film Singles. „I wanted them to look the way they do when they walk down the street, which is not dolled up,” Jacobs explained in a 1993 New York Times interview. „I didn’t want them to look like drag queens, and I didn’t want them to look like creatures… That’s the way beautiful girls look today: they look a little bit unconcerned about fashion.”

The People

Christy Turlington opened the show; Kate Moss and Kristen McMenamy closed it. In between appeared Tyra Banks, Naomi Campbell, Yasmin Le Bon and Carla Bruni.  It was iconic.

Grunge & Glory

Grace Coddington dressed some more in the pieces for an iconic Stephen Meisel shoot for US Vogue titled Grunge and Glory.  (Vogue USA/ December 1992: Nadja Auermann, Kristen McMenamy, Naomi Campbell & others, by Steven MeiselGrunge & Glory) Today, Steven Meisel’s “Grunge & Glory” shoot from the December 1992 issue of US Vogue –  in warm Perry Ellis plaid and Nirvana t-shirts – feels every bit as fresh and relevant as back then.

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As a gesture of tribute, Jacobs sent the samples to Cobain and Courtney Love. “Do you know what we did with it?” Love said in 2010, horrified at the memory. “We burned it. We were punkers – we didn’t like that kind of thing.”

The Impact

At Milan Fashion Week the following season, Suzy Menkes handed out hand-made badges printed with the words „Grunge is Ghastly”. Trish Donnelly condemned the collection as „grunge garbage” and a New York magazine headline read “Grunge: 1992–1993, R.I.P”      ( later that year, Kurt Cobain was photographed wearing a t-shirt that read „Grunge is  dead”). On top of it all, Jacobs was fired from the house he’d been hired to invigorate.

Bringing grunge to the forefront of fashion, the collection remains among the legendary fashion moments that changed the industry honored independent music on the catwalks.